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Hoping for a return of Seattle's 24-hour diner culture - Crosscut

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Which helps explain why the (hopefully) temporary closure of Beth’s Café, situated near the edge of Green Lake, packs so poignant a punch. The long-running greasy spoon had already pared back its hours during the pandemic, no longer serving its famous 12-egg omelets at midnight. And now one of Seattle’s most renowned 24/7 restaurants will have an even longer road back to round-the-clock service, although, breakfast gods willing, it will return in some form.

Beth’s Café isn’t the only once-24/7 eatery to suffer from the twin challenges of staying staffed and weathering a pandemic. Before North Star Diner in Greenwood reduced its hours, you’d often find my wife and I there sharing French toast sticks after seemingly everyone in the city had gone to bed. Lost Lake, which now has the “24” in its “Open 24 Hours” sign artfully papered over, has saved me and countless others on Capitol Hill from going home to raid the fridge. And the long-running 24-hour staple, 13 Coins, now closes before 1 a.m. on weekends.

As of this writing, I believe the only 24/7 restaurant in Seattle city limits is IHOP, not counting fast food. And even though pancakes from a national chain will do in a pinch, many of us would prefer late-night spots with more local flavor.

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Hoping for a return of Seattle's 24-hour diner culture - Crosscut
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